Silicone Molds
Wicking Silicone Molds
To wick the silicone molds, there are a few methods that can be used.
1. Use a 1/8" drill bit and drill the wick hole in the wax piece after it is removed from the mold.
2. Use a wooden skewer or 1/8" wood or metal rod to create a hole in
the wax after it has had a chance to set up a bit, but is still a bit
soft in the center to push the rod in.
3. Poke a small hole in the mold and insert a wick pin or thread the wick.
We prefer to use #1, it seems to work best for us. #3 is a bit of
concern because the wick pin's base or the wick may cause a bit of
distortion in the top of the finished candle, since the silicone is a
bit flexible and may 'dent in' when set on the wick pins. Also #3 can cause damage to the mold over time. top
Tiny Air Bubbles or White Ash on Candles
There are few things that may causing this to happen.
If you pour too hot it can cause this, and if you pour too cold, it can
do this also. We can't give you a specific temperature range because we
have found that different wax formulas will react differently. We have
not found this to occur with our wax, and of course, we have poured wax
in all of our molds.
It is more than likely a lot of air bubbles that is trapped in the wax
itself. You may need to let the wax "cook" for over 10 minutes after
the additives, color and fragrance have been added and minimize the
amount of stirring prior to pouring. Another thing that helps to
minimize air bubbles is to add a microcrystalline wax additive to
minimize air bubbles in the wax.
Other ways to minimize bubbles is to pour slowly and if the opening to
the cavity is large enough, use a rod and pour the wax down the rod.
Also, tap the sides of the mold to help release any bubbles along the
sides.
The only other thing we can think of to do with the molds, themselves,
is to put them on a cookie sheet and "bake" them at the lowest setting
on your oven, usually warm (170° F-175° F), for 1 hour. Yet, like we stated
above, we haven't experienced this and we do not bake our molds.
Here are a few suggestions from other silicone mold users.
Don't pour your wax in as fast as possible; and don't pour your wax in real slow.
Too fast will make bubbles happen & too slow will trap bubbles in
wax that's already starting to thicken from the air/slow pour speed
mix. Pour at a nice, even, steady, pace and aim for the wax to run down
the wick (or wick pin or whatever your preferrence for wicking is).
"Thunk" your molds shortly after pouring, while everything is still
liquid yet - all the way around, everywhere.
The thicker the silicone mold, the harder you need to thunk.
A floury deposit inside the mould after it hasn't been used for a
while: (Personally, we have not seen this in any of our molds.)
Wash your mold, use a good liquid dishsoap. Rinse well, let it dry
well, spray it with a little silicone spray, THEN have a go at it. (A
note on mold releases, the propellants in the spray can cause the mold
to swell and shorten their life, we suggest avoiding their use at all
cost.)
As an alternative to the silicone spray,
you can use a pure silicone fluid and rub the inside of the cavities.
This should, also, cure any whitish film or tiny air bubbles on the outside of the wax castings.
The silicone fluid is available in our online store, CLICK HERE.
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Custom Molds
At this time we are unable to make any custom molds.
We do have the capability of making custom molds, but prices depend on how
fancy you want things to be. Design fees begin at $35.00, and design
work is done by hand. Then the set-up fees start at $35.00. Finally
there is the per mold price. All these figures are dependent on size
& complexity of the piece that the mold is made of and the prices
are adjusted accordingly once we know exactly what you are wanting.
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Candle Supplies
Making Embeds
Embed Color Suggestions
We have had so many requests for color suggestions for our embeds that
we have decided to post which color blocks we use for getting our
embeds so realistic looking.
Bakery Items
- Pie Crusts, Waffle Cups, Cinnamon Buns, etc.:
Brown color block and a touch of Lemon Yellow color block
- Waffle Cups:
Brown color block and a touch of Lemon Yellow color block
- Cinnamon Buns:
Brown color block and a touch of Lemon Yellow color block
- Brownies: Lots of Brown color block
- Vanilla Wafers: Brown color block and Lemon Yellow color block, a bit more than you add for the pie crusts.
- Kisses: Lots of Brown color block
- Pecans: Brown color block and a touch of Red Red color block
- Cinnamon Sticks: Brown color block with Red Red color block, a bit more than you would add for the pecans.
Fruits
- Black Cherries: Burgundy color block and Ruby color block
- Maraschino Cherries: Red Red color block
- Cantaloupe: Small amounts of Peach color block
- Honeydew & Green Grapes: Small amounts of Lime color block
- Watermelon: Small amounts of Pink color block and Red Red color block
- Red Raspberries: Ruby color block.
- Blackberries: Purple color block and equal amounts of Red Red color block & Royal Blue color block until the color looks black.
- Strawberries: Red Red color block and occasionally a touch of Ruby to vary the color a little
- Blueberries: Navy Blue color block and Royal Blue color block
- Cranberries: Ruby color block
- Apple Slices: A small amount of Brown color block
- Peach Slices: Lemon Yellow color block & Orange color block
- Banana Slices: A touch of Lemon Yellow color block, Brown color block, and White color block
- Lemon Slices: Lemon Yellow color block
- Lime Slices: Lime color block
- Orange Slices: Orange color block
- Pineapple Chunks: Lemon Yellow color block
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Packaging
Soap Supplies
General Molds
Are your molds food-safe? Are they NSF certified?
Response:
The mold types that are food safe are specified on the main molds page of our website.
Molds Main Page
Yellow Flexible Molds, Flexible Tray Molds and plastic molds are all made of a food grade material.
Also, the silicon votive molds, metal molds, and loaf molds (silicon, metal and plastic) are food grade materials.
Plastic Molds, Yellow Flexible Molds, Flexible Tray Molds, Silicon Votive & Loaf Molds, and metal molds are FDA Approved.
Scottcrew's Own Silicone Molds are NOT Food-safe...
I do not have any information on NSF approval, but it being FDA approved is what is required for use with food. I believe the NSF seal is much like the Good Housekeeping Seal, not required but perhaps nice to have.
How Do I Use A 2 Part Mold?
Response:
This depends a lot on what mold you are working with. We carry several types of 2 part molds.
- 2 halves on a sheet: The mold that is an 8-1/2" x 11" sheet needs to be cut in half. Then, you need to cut a hole in one of the halves to create a pour hole. Next, you line up the 2 halves and clamp them to seal them together for you to pour into them. You should not be able to pour your materials into the mold.
- High Temp 2 Part Molds: These molds require a pour hole to be cut in one of the halves. Generally there is a "stem" for these molds that is designed to be the pour hole area. Just cut a hole, clamp/seal, & pour.
- 2 Part Molds with a ring or "track" around the cavities: These molds just need the pour hole cut. The "track" or ring around the cavities interlock into one another.
- 2 Part Plastic Mold with Lg Paper Clip: These molds already have a small pour hole and only need to be clamp & sealed for pouring.
- Silicone Molds: These molds need nothing other than to fit the 2 halves together. With Scottcrew's Own Silicone Molds you will need to make sure that the 2 halves match one another. When we make these molds, each half is unique to its own half. You cannot mix-n-match the halves of the molds.
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